Spoon Twin-block Brake Caliper (45020-DCR-G00) on EG6

Update (18 Jan 12): I mis-calculated the offset needed for the rims. The numbers have been revised.

I had the Spoon Twin block Caliper installed on my EG6. There are couple of things to look out for and parts needed for the installation.

• Twin-block: Piston size: 42.85 + 38.18 diameter 2.4kg
• Twin block assembly structure
• Monoblock: Piston Size: 40.46 + 36.12 diameter 2.6kg 
• High strength monocoque aluminum casted caliper

Spoon Twin-block Calipers with DIXCEL FS brake disc rotors and M series brake pads

Before going ahead to install the calipers on the EG6, you will need get the following:

1) 282mm brake disc rotors
2) 3mm wheel spacer to align the brake disc rotor to the calipers

3) Extended wheel studs.  This is due to the addition of the 3mm spacer, so to ensure there is enough thread on the wheel studs for the lug nuts to hold on to.

4) Open end lug nuts for the extended wheel lugs

Optional:

5) 1 inch brake cylinder

6) Double layer brake booster (The EG6 will have this as stock, but to fit the 1 inch brake cylinder, you might need to get the change too.  Explained further down this post)

282mm brake disc rotors

- BASED on the information I had gathered.  The stock Prelude / DC2R(98) / EK9 282mm brake disc rotor will warp if used with the Spoon Calipers.

- Project Mu brake disc is working well with the Spoon Calipers for one of my friend, but remember it is $$$

- In my case, I opt for the DIXCEL FS series of brake disc rotor (FS Type 331 5061)

It is heat treated with higher carbon content, therefore it is less likely to warp and most importantly it cost about half the amount for Project Mu brake disc rotors.

 3mm wheel spacer 

In order for the brake disc rotor to align with the calipers, u will need a 3mm wheel spacer. This spacer goes BEHIND the brake disc rotor. eg Between the hub and the brake disc rotor

I got the KIC 3mm wheel spacer. It is machined and feels sturdy enough for the application.

Alternative you can get the Spoon spacer at 3 times the cost ;)










Extended wheel lugs

I got the ARP extended wheel studs. It is 2.8 inch in length. As I mentioned earlier, it is due to the required 3mm spacer.  A better alternative is to use the wheel studs from DC5R or FD2R, this wheel studs are 8mm longer then the EG6 stock wheel studs, this will be more than suffice for the application. (I only found this out AFTER I had installed the ARPs ;p).

ARP extended wheel studs installed.

(Note the 3mm spacers is installed here before the brake disc rotors)

Do get new wheel bearing if u are going install new wheel studs, as the wheel bearing is very likely to be damage as the hub has to be pressed out to install the studs.

You should consider replacing the lower ball joint at the same time.

Open end lug nuts for the extended wheel lugs

If you got the ARP 2.8inch Extended Wheel Studs, u will need the open end long lug nuts to go with it.

This picture shows why. And make sure that it is threaded to the end!

This may not be necessary if you are going to use the DC5R or FD2R wheel studs.

1 inch brake cylinder

Going from stock prelude brakes to 4-Pot brakes, I was worried that the stock brake cylinder might not ideal. Therefore, I sourced for a EK9/DC2R brake cylinder.

Where the arrow is pointing to, indicates the piston size. For the original EG6 its 15/16 inch (23.8mm).

For the EK9/DC2R brakes, it has a 1 inch (25.4mm) cylinder.










Besides getting the brake cylinder, u will need a matching brake booster for the brake cylinder.

From the picture, the EK9/DC2R brake cylinder mounting is horizontal while the stock EG6 is diagonal.

If your EG6 came with ABS, most likely one of the ports for the brake fluid to the p-valve is bigger as indicated by the arrow.  The hard-brake line are 3/16 inch for EG6 and the EK9/DC2R so no worries there.

You will just need to swap the bolts from the original to 10mmx1 size. Just need to cut off the flange part remove the original bolt, put on the the 10x1mm and re-flare the hardline.






Wheel Clearance for ROTA Slipstreams 15x6.5" +40
In preparation for the installation of the brake calipers, I swapped 15 x 6.5" +40 Slipstreams to 15 x 7" +28 Slipstreams to ensure I have enough clearance from the calipers.

After the 15x7" +28 rims went up, I had about 15mm of clearance from the caliper. That will mean if I were to use the 15x6.5" +40 slipstreams, I will need:

update 17 Jun 2012 (Had done a wrong calculation, amendments done)
((28mm offset + 15mm Clearance - (Rim width difference 7"-6.5")/2) - 40mm offset) =
((28 + 15 - 12.7/2)-40) = 3.35mm spacer

To ensure safe clearance from the caliper, use the 10mm spacer (6.65mm clearance). (This would also mean the DC5R or FD2R wheel studs will not be sufficient).

I put on the15x6.5 40+ ROTA Slipstreams just for this picture. The rims can never seat on the hubs.

Just for reference, I only had about 2mm clearance for my prelude calipers to the 15 x 6.5 +40 Slipstreams at the closest point.

If u are using prelude calipers now, measure the clearance u have. It might give u can good idea which spacer to use by comparing to mine.

Another note, for my installation, I had the washers behind the knuckle (Pic on the right). Spoon recommendation is to have it between the knuckle and the caliper (Left).  Following Spoon's instruction would have push the calipers closer to the rims (about 2mm). So take that into considerations when selecting your spacer/offset.

Minimum offset for the Slipstreams that should fit (theoretically), based on my method of installation:
15 x 6.5 + 28: 8mm clearance
15 x 6.5 +35: 1mm clearance
15 x 7 +40: 3mm clearance (very tight tolerance)

You would have thought that since Spoon came up with SW388, they would have make sure the Calipers would have fitted well. ;p

Tip
I had a minor issue that I faced after my install.  After I upgraded the brake cylinder, the brake pedal assembly  and the brake light sensor was not touching, therefore my brakes light remained on. To rectify the problem, the brake light sensor position was readjusted. However. I had the position set too low and the brakes was not able to fully release.

As such, the vacuum in the brake booster built up as I drove and the brakes will seize up.  If this happen to you, just use the pliers to remove the brake booster vacuum hose to release the vacuum and the brakes will release. Then readjust the brake paddles or the brake light sensor under the dash.


Verdict

As I am still "running in" my new brake pads and disc, I cant really test the stopping ability. (Which is not the reason I upgraded to the Spoon calipers).  However, I do feel a great improvement over the modulation of the brakes, I am able to much better control over the amount of braking pressure applied.

Thank to Benedict aka URACO and Ian from Inspire21 (the workshop that I went to and where I got the Calipers, brake disc and pads) for their tips and help in making the installation relatively problem free :)