EG6 Rear Disc Upgrade

My friend just scrapped his EG6 (COE is up, didnt make sense to pay $US56,000 to be allowed to drive for only another 10yrs..). So he passed his 282mm rear brake disc kit to me.

Stock Rear Disc

Upgraded rear disc

Comparison of the stock disc vs the upgrade disc

The brake disc seats well onto the rear hub.

 The kit came with a 'dog bone' to offset the rear stock caliper.

The issue I had is that after installing the 'dog bone' the bracket for the brake cable was in the way of the caliper.  This will not allow the caliper to move freely.  Had to grind down the bracket to make space for the caliper movement.

After that, everything bolts up nicely.

 I have yet to push hard on how it is going to affect the braking.  Personal thoughts is that after upgrading my front brakes to the spoon twin-block, I should upgrade the rear to match, but whether if this is too big a upgrade which may cause over-steer, I will have to find a chance to test it out.

So far for slightly harder than normal braking on the straight, the braking felt more controlled than before, there is less 'dipping' towards the front.  More "importantly", it looks better than have having the puny disc in the rear ;p

Moroso Oil Pan

Finally replaced my leaky oil pan and gasket today.

Before

After

Moroso Oil and Hondahabit Oil Pan Gasket

Instead of using the original oil pan gasket, I got the Hondahabit Oil Pan Gasket instead.  Based on the positive reviews from Honda-tech.com and claims by Hondahabit, this gasket will not leak and is reusable. The material seems to be some sort of fiber-like material and is unlikely to deform under pressure.  Although with proper installation and using stock oil pan gasket, the leaks can be eliminated, it doesnt hurt to use better alternatives ;).

Flywheel Cover

With the moroso oil pan, the stock aluminum flywheel cover will not fit.

The edges will get the way

'some' grinding will be required to be able to fit back the flywheel cover.

You should grind down the edges so that flywheel cover can slide over the oil pan.

You should be able to slide it about a inch over the oil pan as the pic above

Wrong application of gasket glue = leaks. Previous handy by another workshop.  Gasket glue should be only applied to the area where there is a groove (4 points).

Clean off the glunk before installation of the oil pan and gasket

Installed the studs that I ordered with the hondahabit gasket.  Instead of using bolts and nuts combination, most will be nut down.  Take note 1) that there are two bolt holes on the crank pulley side which will not allow the installation of the studs as the holes are threaded through 2) On the oil filter side, the area where the flywheel cover is bolt on:  The hondahabit studs cannot be installed as it is too long and gets in the way of the flywheel cover.  Therefore, threes holes will still require the use of the original bolts.

Remember to apply sealant on the drain back plug to prevent leaks and after the installation of the oil pan, it requires about 4.5L of engine oil.

Thanx to Ben aka URACO for the tips on the installation :)

EG6 Torque Mount aka Stopper reinforcement

My stock torque mount gave way just a tad over 1 year of installation.  Got a pair as replacement.

Left Stopper Part No.: 50842-SR3-N10
Right Stopper Part No.: 50841-SR3-N10

The original design is quite flimsy, especially the left mount.  The thin rubber would be able to hold against hard driving.

To strengthen it, I stuff some fuel hoses into the gaps to reduce the flex of the mount.

Next I filled up the gap with some polyurethane.  I went for the marine grade, hoping that it can withstand the weather better.

I tape up one side of it before pumping the polyurethane in to prevent it from flowing out the other end.

Once done, leave it alone for a couple of days for it to be fully set.

The reason I am not filling it fully and using hoses, is because I dont want to it to be too stiff.  If the mount is still soft, I can alway fill up the hoses with polyurethane to increase the stiffness :)

I had a pair of this, but it was way too stiff for daily usage...

Neptune TunerView II regular: Case

Manage to fabricate a case for the TunerView

The CF sticker is cover up my lousy cutting skills. If only I can get someone to CNC a aluminum face plate for this.

The buttons were swapped to smaller ones to save space.

It looks quite ghetto, but at least its better than just showing the PCB.

Neptune TunerView II regular: S300

Sometimes I would like to know what are the sensors reading and Hondata S300 adjustments or when the car is having erratic behavior, I can have quick check on the parameters.  Usually I would have to hook up my laptop to the ECU and mount the laptop on the dash, which can be troublesome.

Neptune RTP TunerView II Regular Dash Kit

The other solution is the NEPTUNE RTP TunerView II ;).  This kit allows me to monitor all the parameters in the S300 and its easy to install.

The unit dimension is 98mm x 60mm

Before installing, u need to set up the unit by connecting it to the computer. You can download the software from this link: http://www.hrtuning.com/software/index.php?file=TunerView%20II/ .

In the TunerView II setup, select S300 under the system option.

Next u have the prepare the connection cable. The cable that came with the unit requires a little work to it.  You will have to swap the last two wires on the right to be able to use with Hondata.

You will need the HONDATA Module which has to be ordered separately.

Connect the module wires; red to ignition (+12v) and black to ground.

Another thing to note is that the heatsink (The metal piece protruding out of the box) get very hot.  So avoid having that part touching anything when selecting a position to mount it.

Connect the USB cable to the S300.

Connect this cable to the display unit

Note: the TunerView does not comes with a box, so I have to fabricate one.

EG K-Tuned Traction Bar Part 3

The K-Tuned control arm mounting tabs fits well onto the front LCA. Its a simple bolt on job.

With the radius bolt on.

 Good clearance for both sides of the traction bar

Take note: Do not tighten the radius rods during initial installations, make sure there is some free play before lowering the car.

After installing the radius rods, I ensured that there is some free play and hand tighten the lock nuts. Then I drove the car for a short distance to make sure the front wheels gets to settle back into their neutral position.

Once that is done, I reached under the car (four wheels down on the ground) and tighten the rod to ensure there is no free play, followed by tightening the locking nut.

Initial verdict: As my ride is on soft suspension setup for daily drive; during high speeds turns, it tends to "wobbles" slightly.  After installing the traction bar, the "wobbles" are eliminated and the car feels more controlled.  All this is before a wheel alignment is done to get the castor corrected!  

As for wheel alignment to adjust the castor, it will be a complicated process. This is because when the castor is adjusted, the camber and toe of the wheels will be affected; So do get it done professionally.

update: 18 Jun 12
1) The traction bar may work with half radiators if use the stock radiator mounting point.
2) The K-tune radiator mount bracket will not allow the Half radiator to mounted in the original position.  The radiator will be offset about 1.5 inch to the cam gears side if using the radiator mount.
3) If u have the integra radiator (full size), which u will likely to have adjusted the original radiator mounts lower then stock position.  Then the traction bar will not fit as the stock radiator mounts will get in the way.
4) Using the K-tune radiator mount bracket it will push the full size radiator 1cm / 0.4 inch higher.  Thus, you have issues closing the bonnet.  Alternatively is to lean the radiator slightly which will facilitate the bonnet closing.
5) Another solution is to weld radiator mount brackets directly onto the traction bar.

EG K-Tuned Traction Bar Part 2

As per the previous post, my radiator mounts was in the way for the installation of the traction bar.  The mounts were repositioned previous to fit DC2R type radiator.

Radiator Mounts grinded off to make way.

Securing the bar in.

The bar in place!

The radiator mount that came with the bar has of the studs pushing against the radiator bottom.  It might just puncture the radiator in the long run.

I cut a small of my spare fuel hose and slipped it over to prevent the sharp edge puncturing the radiator.

With the traction bar and the radiator mount, it puts my KOYO DC2 radiator at about 5mm higher.  I had issues with closing the bonnet. For now, the radiator is slightly tilted towards engine to have more clearance from the bonnet.