Honda CIVIC EG6

14 April 2011

11 April 2011

EG6 Front Lip repaint

As the paint on the Front Lip was cracking, I did a simple sand down and repaint with flat black. The putty was applied by a spray shop previously.

After Sanding

After paint

Result from a simple spray using Can paint and 2 hours.

03 April 2011

Throttle Position Sensor replacement

My TPS sensor was giving erratic readings at times, which cause hesitation at low throttle. This can be solved by using HONDATA TPS calibration function. This can be quite irritation when the hesitation comes back and I dont have my laptop ready with me.

With the TPS disconntected. The readings should within the following specification.
Pins 1 and 2 = 0.5K-0.9K ohms
Pins 2 and 3 = 3.6K-5.4K ohms

Pin 1 is the bottom pin.

My TPS sensor was out of range as expected.

Since Honda does not sell the TPS alone (You have to get the Throttle body with TPS as a package from Honda and it is very costly!!), I manage to get a Blox replacement instead.

There is only 2 screw holding the TPS in position. For those"virgin" throttle body, the original screw used by honda does not allow it to be remove using normal tools. U can either try to unscrew it using "chipping" method or use a plier to turn the screw instead.

The installation is slightly tricky. If u look as the sensor closely, u will notice the plastic tab protruding. This is suppose to be align with the groove in the throttle-body, if not the readings will be way off.

The position of the TPS shown on top is approximately where the protrusion will line up with groove in the throttle body.

This will be the position when u plug in the TPS at first.

Next adjust the position of the TPS until u get the following reading with ign on. The voltage between Pins 1 and 3 should be:
0.5volts with the TB closed
4.5volts with the TB fully open

In my case, I used Hondata SManager as a reference for my adjustment.

Once u are happy with the reading, tighten down the TPS with two new screw that came with the Blox TPS or some screw with m5 thread.

Distributor Cap and Rotor Swap

The distributor Cap and Rotor needs to be replaced as it will wear off, although I cant find the info on what is the service life is like.

Left: Old, Right: New

U can see the wear on the rotor and contacts on the old cap and rotor on the left compared to the new ones on the right.

The cap and rotor I got (thanx to Amos again :) are for my distributor TD84U. For the B16 engine, the TD44U and TD84U can be used; the only difference between the two is the size of the housing with TD84U being bigger while the internals seems to be the same. There isnt any difference between the two, other than the size as far as I know.

To change the cap and rotor:

1) Remove the cables from the cap. Do remember with the position of the cables before removing; clock-wise from the bottom left plug: 1-3-4-2.

2) Remove the three screws around the cap.

Remove the cap and u will see the rotor.

Crank your engine, to get the rotor in the position shown on the left. This is so that u can assess the screw holding the rotor in place.

Screw holding rotor in place.

Once u remove the screw, u will be able to remove the rotor.

Just reverse the process to install the new cap and rotor.

31 March 2011

EG6 Air-con mod part 4

For intermittent air-con problems, u may want to check this plug. In my case, one of the pins in the plugs was loose. What I did was to rewire to bypass the plug.

28 March 2011

EG6 Air-con mod part 3

Just a close-up view on the air-con piping.

Before

After

It may not be obvious, but one of the piping going from the compressor to the condenser is not visible anymore ;p. Giving it a slightly cleaner look.

What I did was to use the condenser piping from DC2 system for the modification. The piping goes down instead of up, which then hides the piping from view. Alternatively, u may try to get the installer to bent it downwards to have the same effect.

27 March 2011

EG6 Air-con mod part 2

After sorting out the wiring for the air-con system previously, I discovered my air-con condenser was punctured which caused it to be leaking. It presented a good chance to swap out to a bigger condenser and rework on the installation.

The new condenser is 23"x13" and 1/2" in thickness. Comparing to the old condenser on the left :). Be mindful of the size of the fittings for the hose when choosing your condenser. The cost of the condenser and fittings is about SGD$80 and is easily available.

Its properly secured to the chasis using nuts and bolts instead of cable-ties. The single 8" will be sufficient and there is enough space for a additional one, if the needs arise.

I managed to wire the radiator fan to operate when the compressor starts working for better cooling efficiency.

No more sweat during hot afternoon traffic jams!!

24 March 2011

EG Steering Fluid Tank

Nothing major. The steering fluid tank had a crack and the fluid was dripping all over, creating a mess.

Manage to get a replacement from the yard :)

Do note that the tank for the SOHC and DOHC are different in the mounting point when u get your replacement tank.

Valve Adjustment; aka Lash, Clearance

http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=7491

Got the instructions from civic-eg.com for the valve clearance adjustment. :) Just follow the instructions in the forum.

Checking the clearance on the intake side.

It was varying about 0.002"-0.004" difference before the adjustments which is causing the engine to be noisier then usual.

Do remember to make sure u have your car park overnight before commencing the job. If not, the measurements will not accurate due to heat expansion.

The difference after the adjustment??

1) Engine is quieter
2) The AFR readings are more stable now and fluctuate less then before, which resulted in a smoother ride.
3) The feel in power increment is significant.


Door Sash Garnish