Sunset

Wheel Alignment

Just got my alignment done at Kenny Wheel Alignment. Professional and Fast. As you can see, all they are just wheel alignment. Located at AMK Autopoint 04-15. Highly recommended :)

B series Injectors

Just for comparison sake between the injectors from B16B and B18C Spec R.

Left: B16B Right: B18C Spec R

Both are OBD2 injectors, which means the injectors plugs are different from the OBD1. These are high impedance injectors and supposely able to withstand up till 120psi of fuel.

The nozzle is slightly different. But I don't think it will affect the spray pattern though.

Subframe Brace

Got the subframe brace installed recently to prevent the rear subframe from fracturing due to upgraded Rear Sway / Anti-Roll bar upgrade.  I wasn't expecting any improvement in handling, but the rear does seem to be behaving better than rear tie-bar I had.

Squeaky Suspension

I was running full polyurethane setup for my rear suspension and it was "squeaking" quite a bit went going over speed bump. To stop the squeaking ('Rubber' rubbing against metal), I decided to spray the polyurethane area with silicone grease; BAD IDEA!  The squeaking got worse. Even traveling on relative flat road, the rear suspension was squeaking like crazy.  

Essentially what happened was that I got rid of the grease that was present was the silicone grease, therefore the squeaking got worse.  

If you are still running original rubber inserts, use the red rubber grease.

For polyurethane, I used Energy Suspension Formula 5 Prelub which came with my Energy Suspension kit. 

For my Skunk2 LCA, I applied the Formula 5 Prelube at the area pointed.

I applied the read rubber grease at the area where the springs are seated.


In my case, I had to take the suspension setup apart to applied to areas where the polyurethane/rubber meets the metal.


No more irritating squeaks!


So if you are installing polyurethane or replacing rubber inserts, do apply the required grease.

TPS unstable reading

Previously, I had replaced the TPS due to erratic readings http://honda-eg6.blogspot.com/2011/04/throttle-position-sensor-replacement.html.   

Erratic TPS reading will result in unstable AFR, hesitation at low throttle (jerkiness) and lagging throttle response (kind of like sudden surge forward when throttling in eg. 0% to 5% throttle.)

The same symptoms appear again. The TPS readings were unstable, at times there was no TPS reading until I throttle beyond 7% and my AFR reading was fluctuating during cruising. 

Possible causes that I could think of:

1) Another dead TPS

2) Bad grounding at thermostat (ECU ground)

3) Bad wiring.

After some testing. it turns out to be bad TPS plug, which causes the intermediate readings:

Looking at where the arrow is pointing, u can see that a catch on the right hole is missing compared to the  middle. Therefore, the pin was not held properly in place = bad contact. 

I swapped in one from my spare harness, and tested it. All the above mentioned symptoms are now gone :)


From my understand (after some tuning with Hondata).
The throttle position sensor reading affects quite a few thing.
1) Min. throttle required before VTEC will engage (Not determine only by RPM)
2) Fuel Cut off (ECU will cut off fuel at 0.6% throttle - better fuel economy)
3) Tip-in throttle fuel trim (Extra fuel added during sudden throttle, prevent lean out)

AVID Engine Torque Mount

Avid Engine Torque Mount

Got this as replacement for my Engine Torque Mount

It is labeled as Front Stopper in the Service Manual. 

The finishing isnt fantastic, but nothing I can see that will result in failure (cracks, etc). Anyway, it is out of sight once installed.

The original Torque Mount.  I understand that some believe this is unnecessary.  However, there are cases where the Engine Main mount failed and result in the engine dropping/move out of position when the torque mount is not installed. Or in a frontal collision and cause the engine to swing into the firewall.  So make your own decision if u want the torque mount ;)

In my case, the mount on the engine needs some minor bending done to the sheet metal to fit in.  You can see the area near the right bolt for how close it is.

Verdict: 

Excellent Package - Comes with all the necessary washers, bolts and collar that you need to install the torque mount.  Installation is easy.  Although the instructions are quite clear, it will help a lot if it came with a diagram/picture.

Good Performance: Reduced wheel hop during launch and much better throttle response.

VIBRATIONS!!: It will still rattle your dashboard and interior!!

Preview: AVID Engine Torque Mount

This Video is taken with the door and windows closed.

Change Lever Dust Seal and Ball Seat install/change

Cabin View

This is clear view of the torn change lever dust seal from the top (cabin).

Undercarriage

Ball of the change lever exposed, which will wear it down in the long run.

Worn seal and the brand new one with the change lever ball seat inserted.

Base on the service manual, the Change Lever Dust Seal B is installed with the small opening facing upwards. Which will expose the ball of the lever as shown above.

In my case, I had the dust seal flip over.  This is so to prevent the ball being exposed and keeps the lithium grease in.

After installation, all u can see is the Dust Seal.

Gear change feels very much more positive and no more uncertainty when putting to reverse gear :)

Change Level Dust Seal and Ball Seat

My gear stick (Change Lever) is feeling a bit wobbly and have quite a bit of free play.  After inspecting from below I realised the Change Lever Ball Seat is worn and not holding the ball of the change level in place.  Got my replacement in today :)

Change Lever Ball Seat

Change Level Dust Seal A

54110-SH3-003

Change Level Dust Seal B

54109-SA7-000

54115-SH3-000

The picture above will give u a idea where the parts go until I come back with a "how-to"