S300 ECU swap

Just got a P28 ECU prep by HA Motorsports for the S300.  My Hondata S300 is working fine with my current ECU.  But there is a reason, why I decided to spend the money to get a professionally done P28 for the S300.

Top: HA Motorsport P28 Below: Old P28

Old (left) and New (Right)

Old (bottom) and New(Top)

The reason for the swap is show in the pics below.

Old P28

Above is the picture of the board of the old P28 I was using.

Look closely and u will see the shoddy workmanship on the board. The soldering around the capacitors is really bad.  

To me it is like a time bomb, u never know when a circuit like this will fail!!

HA Motorsport ECU for S300

The circuit board and capacitors looks really new!!

S300 Module

S300 module installed!!

Antenna upgrade!

As the original radio antenna did give very good reception, so I did a search and came across a marine antenna that was suppose to give better reception.

 Got the marine antenna along with a extension.

This is the antenna installed.  There was a hole drilled previously for Melvin's DAB antenna so it saved the trouble of me having to drill a hole.













I assess through the back, removing the rubber seal and pulling down the roof lining a litter.

 The wires were ran down the side of the roof down to the A-Pillars

You get the idea how it was routed ;)












The result was that the reception was significantly better, I was able to pick up channels that I wasn't able to previously!  The antenna and extension cost me about SGD$75 due to international shipping cost, a worthwhile investment if u spend most of your time on the road or get stuck in traffic jams often ;)

EG6 Clear Headlights

Just a simple swap of headlights from the original to clear type and install the orange corner lights which I got from Amos :) . It does update the look of the car a bit

Old Look

 

The installation in process.

Updated look!

SG Meet :)

Goodies from Melvin ;)

Just some parts no. to share. All thanx to Melvin (Previous owner of the car), who passed the brand new parts to me.

Hood Hinge Cover

Hood Hinge Cover

Hood Hinge Cover Left:
74214-SR3-300


Hood Hinge Cover Right:
74213-SR3-300

Door Mirror Garnish

Door Mirror Garnish Left:
76270-SR3-900


Door Mirror Garnish Right:
76220-SR3-900










Door Pull Pocket Bracket Assembly:
83508-SR3-000












Door Sash Garnish Left:
72470-SR3-003

Door Sash Garnish Right:
72430-SR3-003




 

Door Sash Garnish

OBD1 ECU Plugs





 

EG6 Front Lip repaint

As the paint on the Front Lip was cracking, I did a simple sand down and repaint with flat black.  The putty was applied by a spray shop previously.

After Sanding

After paint

Result from a simple spray using Can paint and 2 hours.

Throttle Position Sensor replacement

My TPS sensor was giving erratic readings at times, which cause hesitation at low throttle.  This can be solved by using HONDATA TPS calibration function.  This can be quite irritation when the hesitation comes back and I dont have my laptop ready with me. 

With the TPS disconntected. The readings should within the following specification.
Pins 1 and 2 = 0.5K-0.9K ohms
Pins 2 and 3 = 3.6K-5.4K ohms

Pin 1 is the bottom pin.

My TPS sensor was out of range as expected.

Since Honda does not sell the TPS alone (You have to get the Throttle body with TPS as a package from Honda and it is very costly!!), I manage to get a Blox replacement instead.

There is only 2 screw holding the TPS in position. For those"virgin" throttle body, the original screw used by honda does not allow it to be remove using normal tools.  U can either try to unscrew it using "chipping" method or use a plier to turn the screw instead.

 

The installation is slightly tricky.  If u look as the sensor closely, u will notice the plastic tab protruding.  This is suppose to be align with the groove in the throttle-body, if not the readings will be way off.  

The position of the TPS shown on top is approximately where the protrusion will line up with groove in the throttle body.

This will be the position when u plug in the TPS at first.  

Next adjust the position of the TPS until u get the following reading with ign on. The voltage between Pins 1 and 3 should be:
0.5volts with the TB closed
4.5volts with the TB fully open

In my case, I used Hondata SManager as a reference for my adjustment. 

Once u are happy with the reading, tighten down the TPS with two new screw that came with the Blox TPS or some screw with m5 thread.

Distributor Cap and Rotor Swap

The distributor Cap and Rotor needs to be replaced as it will wear off, although  I cant find the info on what is the service life is like. 

Left: Old, Right: New

U can see the wear on the rotor and contacts on the old cap and rotor on the left compared to the new ones on the right.

The cap and rotor I got (thanx to Amos again :) are for my distributor TD84U. For the B16 engine, the TD44U and TD84U can be used; the only difference between the two is the size of the housing with TD84U being bigger while the internals seems to be the same.  There isnt any difference between the two, other than the size as far as I know.

 

To change the cap and rotor:

1) Remove the cables from the cap.  Do remember with the position of the cables before removing; clock-wise from the bottom left plug: 1-3-4-2.

2) Remove the three screws around the cap.

 

Remove the cap and u will see the rotor.

Crank your engine, to get the rotor in the position shown on the left.  This is so that u can assess the screw holding the rotor in place.

Screw holding rotor in place.

Once u remove the screw, u will be able to remove the rotor.

Just reverse the process to install the new cap and rotor.

EG6 Air-con mod part 4

For intermittent air-con problems, u may want to check this plug.  In my case, one of the pins in the plugs was loose.  What I did was to rewire to bypass the plug.