TPS unstable reading

Previously, I had replaced the TPS due to erratic readings http://honda-eg6.blogspot.com/2011/04/throttle-position-sensor-replacement.html.   

Erratic TPS reading will result in unstable AFR, hesitation at low throttle (jerkiness) and lagging throttle response (kind of like sudden surge forward when throttling in eg. 0% to 5% throttle.)

The same symptoms appear again. The TPS readings were unstable, at times there was no TPS reading until I throttle beyond 7% and my AFR reading was fluctuating during cruising. 

Possible causes that I could think of:

1) Another dead TPS

2) Bad grounding at thermostat (ECU ground)

3) Bad wiring.

After some testing. it turns out to be bad TPS plug, which causes the intermediate readings:

Looking at where the arrow is pointing, u can see that a catch on the right hole is missing compared to the  middle. Therefore, the pin was not held properly in place = bad contact. 

I swapped in one from my spare harness, and tested it. All the above mentioned symptoms are now gone :)


From my understand (after some tuning with Hondata).
The throttle position sensor reading affects quite a few thing.
1) Min. throttle required before VTEC will engage (Not determine only by RPM)
2) Fuel Cut off (ECU will cut off fuel at 0.6% throttle - better fuel economy)
3) Tip-in throttle fuel trim (Extra fuel added during sudden throttle, prevent lean out)

AVID Engine Torque Mount

Avid Engine Torque Mount

Got this as replacement for my Engine Torque Mount

It is labeled as Front Stopper in the Service Manual. 

The finishing isnt fantastic, but nothing I can see that will result in failure (cracks, etc). Anyway, it is out of sight once installed.

The original Torque Mount.  I understand that some believe this is unnecessary.  However, there are cases where the Engine Main mount failed and result in the engine dropping/move out of position when the torque mount is not installed. Or in a frontal collision and cause the engine to swing into the firewall.  So make your own decision if u want the torque mount ;)

In my case, the mount on the engine needs some minor bending done to the sheet metal to fit in.  You can see the area near the right bolt for how close it is.

Verdict: 

Excellent Package - Comes with all the necessary washers, bolts and collar that you need to install the torque mount.  Installation is easy.  Although the instructions are quite clear, it will help a lot if it came with a diagram/picture.

Good Performance: Reduced wheel hop during launch and much better throttle response.

VIBRATIONS!!: It will still rattle your dashboard and interior!!

Preview: AVID Engine Torque Mount

This Video is taken with the door and windows closed.

Change Lever Dust Seal and Ball Seat install/change

Cabin View

This is clear view of the torn change lever dust seal from the top (cabin).

Undercarriage

Ball of the change lever exposed, which will wear it down in the long run.

Worn seal and the brand new one with the change lever ball seat inserted.

Base on the service manual, the Change Lever Dust Seal B is installed with the small opening facing upwards. Which will expose the ball of the lever as shown above.

In my case, I had the dust seal flip over.  This is so to prevent the ball being exposed and keeps the lithium grease in.

After installation, all u can see is the Dust Seal.

Gear change feels very much more positive and no more uncertainty when putting to reverse gear :)

Change Level Dust Seal and Ball Seat

My gear stick (Change Lever) is feeling a bit wobbly and have quite a bit of free play.  After inspecting from below I realised the Change Lever Ball Seat is worn and not holding the ball of the change level in place.  Got my replacement in today :)

Change Lever Ball Seat

Change Level Dust Seal A

54110-SH3-003

Change Level Dust Seal B

54109-SA7-000

54115-SH3-000

The picture above will give u a idea where the parts go until I come back with a "how-to"

CF Bonnet restoration... kind of

Manage to get a used Varis CF bonnet for a reasonable price, but as u can see it was in a bad state.

The left side of the bonnet is after I have spend time sanding it down and right side was the original state when I got it. The lacquer were peeling off in spots all over.  My plans was to have it spray-painted so the condition didnt bother me much. However, I decided to try to restore it for fun (So I thought)

I used a couple grade of sand papers: Grit 240, 500, 800, 1200 & 2000 for the job. 

During the sanding job, always do it in a single direction for each grade of paper. eg. Up & Down or Left and Right. Basically, just sand it in a perpendicular direction to the previous grit.

This is so that u can see if u had managed to sand down the area properly.  If u did, u should only see the sanding lines in the same direction.

This is the result after grit 240 sand down. 

I did wet sanding for all the different git of sand paper.  Basically just wetting the surface and sand paper with water regularly.

After I got down to grit 2000, I use rubbing compound to buff it with a DA machine.

This is the final result, not a fantastic job ;p.  Total time spent 10 hours.

The comforting thought is that at least I know I got the foundation done right before sending it to the professional for respray!

CF Bonnet project sneak preview

Just a preview of what I have been doing, its quite time consuming!
More updates when I am done

Bumper Gap quick fix

Since the EG is almost a 20 yr old car, it is inevitable that front collision had occurred before. Most of the time the support for the bumper maybe broken or the bumper beam may be removed (for better air flow) after the accident.  This may result a ugly gap between the headlights and the bumper like mine.

Broken Bumper Support

Front Bumper Beam

The quick and easy fix

The gap is quite obvious between the side light and bumper.

First remove the side lights by removing the single screw holding the side light in place.

Then remove the bolt to the side of the headlights.

I used a L-bar with a drilled a hole as a support for the bumper. 

Push up the bumper and secure the bolt in place with a spring washer.

After

Reinstall the side lights and you are done!

Comparison

It ain't perfect, but it sure looks better than before and its a real cheap fix.

The reason for the L-shape bar is because the shape gives a better strength and the material is easier to saw and resistant to rust. The thickness of the material used is about 3mm thick.

S300 ECU swap

Just got a P28 ECU prep by HA Motorsports for the S300.  My Hondata S300 is working fine with my current ECU.  But there is a reason, why I decided to spend the money to get a professionally done P28 for the S300.

Top: HA Motorsport P28 Below: Old P28

Old (left) and New (Right)

Old (bottom) and New(Top)

The reason for the swap is show in the pics below.

Old P28

Above is the picture of the board of the old P28 I was using.

Look closely and u will see the shoddy workmanship on the board. The soldering around the capacitors is really bad.  

To me it is like a time bomb, u never know when a circuit like this will fail!!

HA Motorsport ECU for S300

The circuit board and capacitors looks really new!!

S300 Module

S300 module installed!!

Antenna upgrade!

As the original radio antenna did give very good reception, so I did a search and came across a marine antenna that was suppose to give better reception.

 Got the marine antenna along with a extension.

This is the antenna installed.  There was a hole drilled previously for Melvin's DAB antenna so it saved the trouble of me having to drill a hole.













I assess through the back, removing the rubber seal and pulling down the roof lining a litter.

 The wires were ran down the side of the roof down to the A-Pillars

You get the idea how it was routed ;)












The result was that the reception was significantly better, I was able to pick up channels that I wasn't able to previously!  The antenna and extension cost me about SGD$75 due to international shipping cost, a worthwhile investment if u spend most of your time on the road or get stuck in traffic jams often ;)