Update on the engine hard start

 It turns out that the gasket was leaking but very "minor leaks". There was no white smoke, engine pulls well.

Coolant is getting into the cylinder only after the engine is shut down after getting warm enough. This is because after the engine is shut down and there is no circulation of coolant. The coolant starts to absorb heat, starts to expand and the pressure increases within the coolant system. THIS pushes the coolant into the cylinder and wetting the spark plugs etc causing the hard start.

I verified this by removing the pressure release valve in the radiator cap, so that the coolant is free to flow into the reservoir when expanding. This totally got rid of the hard start, no more coolant is flowing into the cylinders.

BUT still.. I gonna have the rework the engine head and block, replace the gasket. 

I am still figuring out, why did the gasket fail. I have never encounter any overheating so far to cause gasket failure. 

CIVIC EG IACV

 My new IACV arrived. Part no. 36450-P6T-S01. It comes with the seal as well.

I thot the IACV that I borrowed may not be working 100%, but it seems that a brand new doesn't improve my engine hard start situation either.

Since I dont connect up the FITV portion of the IACV, I covered them up with silicone caps ;).

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Civic EG Hard Start Part 4

 Continuing from the previous episode of my engine being flooded. It is confirmed that the 240cc injectors I borrowed were leaking causing the flood. 

However, the engine was still hard to start after I swap out the injectors. I being to noticed that almost everything I clean out the spark plugs or swap in new ones, it would start quite easily until the 3rd or 4th attempt (after driving around). Somehow my plugs are getting fouled, but the AFR reading were good at 14.7.

It turns out that the leaks from the 240cc injectors were so bad that my engine oil level increased! I immediately changed out the engine oil which measured almost another extra 500ml of oil.. Thus the fouling of the plugs. 

So after changing out the 240cc injectors, changing the engine oil and cleaning the spark plug. I can start the engine easily and reliably only if I open the throttle to 10% (Based on the Hondata S300 read out). My conclusion is that either the IACV (not new) is unable to open fully during cranking or I have to do the IACV learning procedures. 

I have tried reducing the cranking fuel in Hondata S300 from -10% to -30%, but it is not as reliable as keeping at 0% change and 10% throttle. Thus I have ruled out having "too much fuel" during cranking. As long as u update the injector size in Hondata S300, it will adjust the cranking fuel accordingly, thus it should be so much of a difference.

Will update once I try out the procedure while waiting for my new IACV to arrive from Japan.

Anyway, it is a win to me since I can start the car reliably now, instead of carrying a spark plug remover and blow torch in my car all the time..

Once I managed to totally solve the issue, I will summaries the whole event and hopefully it will help someone else encounter the same issue.

Civic EG Hard Start Part 3

 Before putting in the RDX injectors, I managed to borrow a set of 240cc injectors from a friend and installed them. It did not solve, the hard start issue. 

One time, I decided to remove the spark plug in the morning before I start my car, 2 of the cylinder were flooded with fuel! One step closer to the mystery, it is now either the 240cc injectors are also leaking or my ECU was not able to close the injectors fully during shut down. 

If this still happens after the RDX 410 swap, I guess it is the ECU that is having issues.. 

Civic EG RDX 410

The RDX 410 has arrived with the top hat and the OBD1 to RDX conversion harness.

I also ordered the Injector Seal Ring (Where the injector inserts into) 16472-PH7-003 which flatter than the original 16472-PD6-000. So that the RDX will seat at the same height as the stock injectors, therefore there is no need to add spacer to the fuel rail. Additionally, the nozzle also protrudes at the same the distance into the manifold.

As the Hondata S300, Hondata had include the dead times in Smanager. So just set the correct injector flow rate (410cc) and select the dead times in the program. 

Civic EG Engine Hard Start Part 2

 Update on my hard start issue.

My "bypass of the IACV" method did not really help much.

I managed to borrow a IACV from a good friend of mine. I can start the engine now, she is still hesitant to start, some bog and stuff. Sometimes I need to throttle a bit to get her started. Once the engine starts up, it idles fine and I can switch off the engine and start her up easily again.

The last piece of item that I have not change is my ID1050X (Less than a year old, my stock injectors cracked at the nozzle, thus the change of injectors). Now I suspect that it might be leaking fuel into the cylinder causing the hard start. 

Just managed to borrow a set of stock injectors, hopefully this will solve the problem. I will most likely get the RDX 410 as replacement.

Civic EG Engine Hard Start Part 1

 It has been a long time since updated this blog.

I decided to add this post as I encountered hard start with my engine for the past one month.

The car was driving fine for years and months, without any symptoms of any failure. I drove to work and after I park my car for 8 hours, she decided not to start. Prior to this nothing was added or done to the car.

There was good cranking, fuel and spark. Timing was ok. I changed my distributor to be sure (OEM original rebuilt by myself with new ICM and Coil), still no start. I decided to get it towed to my workshop, obviously it is out of capabilities.

My mechanic/tuner did the same checks but couldn't find any mechanical fault. He decided to reload the tune (Hondata S300) and the engine managed to start. Yeah! Problem solved! BUT nope, the subsequent few days, she was temperamental. Sometimes, she will start right up and sometimes, I did crank until the plugs get wet with fuel... So I had to remove the plugs and let the cylinders dry up of fuel. The next day, after putting the plugs, it will start right up.

So I thot maybe the injectors are leaking and there is too much fuel in the cylinders or I need to reduce the cranking fuel injected, since the AFR was reading richer than normal compared to before immediately after start up (I am running ID1050X, which was starting and idling perfectly). For days, I tried different tunes, playing with the fuel trim in Smanager for cranking, but she remains temperamental.

To be clear, when she starts up, she drives and idle perfectly. No signs of any issue at all; I have my PLX AFR meter, my laptop connected to check for any abnormality.

One day, I notice my AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator is leaking again! (The first I got which lasted for over 15 years leaked and I replaced a new one 6 months ago) I replaced it with a Sard Fuel Regulator. Then she start immediately! Hey I found the fault! NOPE! The next day, the hard start returns again.

Running out of ideas, I decided to clean my IACV. It was quite dirty but that didn't help. Then I notice my IACV wasn't running (usually, there is a slight buzz if I put my ear next to my intake). But even so, I thot the engine so be able to start even with a faulty IACV. I checked my idle screw on my throttle body, it was screw all the way in tight!

What happened was that the IACV was doing all the work of letting air in during cranking all this time! Once the IACV decides not to work, the engine was not getting any air at all, thus the rich AFR reading if she starts or doesn't start at all. 

So now, before my IACV replacement arrives from japan. I open my idle screw out and let the engine idle at 1200rpm. At this setting, the car can start even if the IACV is not working. If I turn the idle screw to lower the rpm, I will not be able to start the car if the IACV decides not to work.

Hopefully, this post will be useful to those facing the same problem. I have been searching for answers for the past one month and wasn't able to get any solution or any hint that IACV can cause the engine not to start. 

The IACV will open up when the key is turn to "on" (position before cranking) to allow more air to enter into the engine during cranking. It is not just solely to control the idling the engine.

Been away for quite awhile due to family and work commitment. Not too much changes to the lady.

Things are done here and there. I hope I will find time to update soon. Significant stuff done over the few years.

DIY grounding cables
Lithium Batteries
New Intake
Addition Relay/Fuse Box for the radiator fan, A/C compressor and Condenser Fan (cause 30A fuse for the SPAL fan was blowing)
Changed to Koyo Radiator
K-Tune Shifter
Defi Advance ZD Club Sport
New coil-overs (learnt how to do elementary pre-load)

Mechman Alternator for EG6/DC2 B16 B18C

Got a another nice surprise from the mailman 3 days ago :)

But I got another 'surprise' when I opened the box... 

I had sent a email to mechman regarding the damage, hope they will reply soon to advise on what can be done.  The shipping of the item to my location cost almost US$100, I do hope they can send a free replacement instead of getting me to ship this back for repair..

Update: 4 Oct 14

The conclusion from MECHMAN, the damage is due to shipping.  It is up to me to claim the damage from the shipping company (SINGPOST). 

Anyway, MECHMAN is kind enough to offer to ship the replacement for the plastic piece surround the positive post.  I will try to "repair" it myself (mostly likely only involves bending back the post).

EG6 Spoon Bonnet

Just a better look at the SPOON Bonnet for those who are interested. Do remember the shine on the bonnet was achieved after 4 coats of lacquer. Do not expect the bonnet to shine like this out of the box!

Come Back

Had new paint job recently. Had the old putty removed and sanded down :)

Favourite part is the brand new SPOON CF Bonnet. The bonnet is real light compared to the Seibon, and it is very rigid (No drooping of bonnet when prop up). However, the finishing of the bonnet and the CF layering is not as good.  There were a lot of dips on the bonnet and it only had resin finish, thus its doesnt really shine.  I had to get lacquered for four layers to get rid of some of the dips.  It is purely function over form kind of CF bonnet.

Busy

Sorry for the lack of updates.  This is because I am busy preparing for my big day! Happy new year to all HONDA die hard!

AEM Fuel Regulator

Finally installed my AEM fuel regulator after storage for 2 years ;p

This is my custom made fuel regulator with a metal diaphragm instead of a normal rubber type.  It is able to withstand more than 150psi of fuel pressure (I am running at 90 psi for better fuel atomization).

The standard fuel rail adapter for running after-market fuel regulator.

The AEM fuel regulator is able to withstand up to 120psi of fuel pressure and it bolts straight up to the fuel rail = neater and less chances of leaks.

These are three different sized orifices that came with the fuel regulator.  The rule for change the orifices: Bigger the orifice = less chances of fuel pressure spike (due to bigger fuel pump) but more sensitive in adjustment of fuel pressure (meaning harder to do minute adjustment)

Extracted from AEM installation manual:

 "A common problem that occurs when using a fixed orifice in a “universal” regulator is that the fuel pressure cannot be effectively controlled when the fuel pump volume is significantly higher than stock. In the case of too small of a discharge orifice, there is a large pressure spike associated with rapid deceleration because the orifice cannot flow enough fuel when the diaphragm is fully deflected to the open position. This causes a momentary rich condition, which may lead to a rough idle quality until the pressure stabilizes. Conversely if the discharge orifice is too large the adjustment is difficult because the response of the fuel flow out of the orifice is too rapid which makes the adjustment screw too sensitive. The AEM regulator is packaged with three orifice sizes, .100”, .150” and .200”."

Since I am using the in-tank version of the Bosch 044 fuel pump. I had changed the orifice to .150" size (it came installed with .100" size).

 The installation is quite straight forward. Bolts up just like a stock fuel regulator :)

update: 12 Jan 22

My first AEM FPR diaphragm broke after almost 10 years of usage. I bought another AEM FPR but it gave way just under 6 months. Not sure if the QC has dropped or I am just unlucky, but I got a SARD FPR instead this time.

Rigid Muffler Ring

Got myself some Rigid Muffler Ring as replacement for the rubber type I was using.  It is suppose to reduce the vibration of the exhaust system giving it a better flow.

 Mid pipe

 End of mid pipe

Muffler

To make life easier, spray some WD40 / Lubricant when removing and installing the muffler rings.

EG6 Rear Disc Upgrade

My friend just scrapped his EG6 (COE is up, didnt make sense to pay $US56,000 to be allowed to drive for only another 10yrs..). So he passed his 282mm rear brake disc kit to me.

Stock Rear Disc

Upgraded rear disc

Comparison of the stock disc vs the upgrade disc

The brake disc seats well onto the rear hub.

 The kit came with a 'dog bone' to offset the rear stock caliper.

The issue I had is that after installing the 'dog bone' the bracket for the brake cable was in the way of the caliper.  This will not allow the caliper to move freely.  Had to grind down the bracket to make space for the caliper movement.

After that, everything bolts up nicely.

 I have yet to push hard on how it is going to affect the braking.  Personal thoughts is that after upgrading my front brakes to the spoon twin-block, I should upgrade the rear to match, but whether if this is too big a upgrade which may cause over-steer, I will have to find a chance to test it out.

So far for slightly harder than normal braking on the straight, the braking felt more controlled than before, there is less 'dipping' towards the front.  More "importantly", it looks better than have having the puny disc in the rear ;p

Radiator - Mishimoto X-Line (Full size)

Got the Mishimoto X-Line radiator (DC2 radiator) as the replacement for my leaking Koyo R2028.  I could not get the R2028 as KOYO has cease production for the R series radiator for the DC2 and the replacement model are V series which are 36mm thick instead of the R series which are 53mm thick core.

Anyway, the package was great; the radiator was well protected in the soft foam enclosure.

 The weldings were alright.

Mishimotor has offset the top post of the radiator to prevent fitting issues.  On the koyo, the top post are welded in the centre of the radiator, which may cause fitting problems.

Mishimoto and Spal combo

Performance wise, there isnt much difference from the Koyo R2028. So I guess it's a good replacement.

EG6 Fender R (inner) 74101-SR3-000

Manage to get a new inner fender as replacement.  It is a simple job, so not going to have any description on the installation.  Just couple of pictures

 Part no. 74101-SR3-000 (right side)

The old torn and worn.














In placed :)

Hey... thats my ..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/92-95-honda-Civic-MuGen-Front-bumper-Lip-PU-kit-3Drs-EG-Jdm-/221004304013?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACivic&hash=item3374e20e8d&vxp=mtr

Found this on ebay. Looks really familiar....


note: I have no relation to the ebay seller

Function7 V3 Ultralight Lower Control Arms - Bling Bling

 New Bling :)

Picture taken from Function-7.com

The Function 7 LCA are really well made, almost all edges are chamferred to reduce point of stress.  With the V3, a new type of bushing 'DuraFlex' by Energy Suspension was used, so expect it to last longer.  On top of the that Function 7 offers free bushing replacement if u ever need one ;)