Varis CF Bonnet: Professional Clear Coating

 This was after my own attempt at "restoration"

 Being done by the professionals

 Back from ArmorCoatSG  Shiny.......

Thanks to Jonathan and his merry men for the wonderful job :)

Next item to go onto the car:

Seat bolts: re-thread

M8 x 1.25

The thread on the bolts securing the seats were round after multiple removal and installation of seats in the car. Which makes it a PITA when I need to remove the seats for some jobs.

The thread size for the bolt are as in the caption for the pictures.

M10 x 1.25

Old bolts with rounded threads.

 New bolts with spring washers

Taps for M8 x 1.25 and M10 x 1.25 threads with the tapping tool.

Since the threads are rounded on the bolts, it means the threads on the car are in bad condition. Therefore, I had to re-thread all the holes.

 When the holes re-thread and using new bolts, it is much easier to bolt and unbolt the seats.

Need a bigger washer..

EG6 VSS aka Speed Sensor 78410-SV0-003

My Speedometer was behaving erratically.  Occasionally, when I start off after parking for some time, the speedometer will not move until I have traveled for about 15km, after which the needle will jump from 0km/h to normal.  It got worse as engine check light came on.

The VSS aka Speed Sensor signal goes to the ECU and Speedometer directly.  To verify if there is a VSS issue, I check using my laptop connected to my Hondata for VSS reading which show 0 km/h when i was on the move.  

Those not using any programmable ECU or no other way to check this, can try to engage VTEC while driving.  If the VTEC engages will mean that the VSS is still providing signal to the ECU (VTEC will only engage after certain speed, which is why VTEC will not work when the car is stationary, while trying to rev beyond VTEC engagement RPM).  Also to note, the CEL may come on if the reading stays at 0km/h (trying unplugging the VSS, the CEL will not light up).  The CEL only light up when my Hondata VSS reading stays at 8km/h throughout.

 

I found a real cheap VSS off Ebay for US$10, which is not Honda original part, but for the price I though it might be worth trying.  It comes with the Drive Link (the little pin).

 The VSS is held down by 2 10mm bolts, which is easily accessible, local on the gearbox near the firewall.

Old VSS removed

Drive Link inserted

New VSS installed.

Taking a closer look, the centre pin is corroded.  It may have solved the problem I had clean up the pin.

Besides changing the VSS,  I decided to clean up the pin in the plugs

You can see that the centre pin is corroded like the old VSS.

I decided to remove the pin to clean it up. First remove the white plastic pin cover.

Push down the pin and slide it through the back of the plug.

I used 500 grit sandpaper to sand off the corroded area.

Plug everything in and hopefully the erratic behavior will disappear :)

Braided line and removal of fuel filter

It is time to change the fuel filter, I thought that I might as well remove the stock fuel filter and relocate it.

As I am going to do it with braided line and AN fittings. I will need to cut the stock fuel line and add a hard line adaptor. 

Mini Tube Cutter

I got the mini tube cutter to work in the confine space.

Cut Line

As the fuel supply line is 5/16, I got the hardline adaptor to convert it to -AN6.  

There is another way to convert the hardline to AN fittings which involves using a tube nut, tube sleeve, AN to AN adaptor and a VERY expensive 37 degree flaring tool. This method will be able to withstand at least 1000 psi.  The hardline adaptor i used for my application can ONLY withstand up to 200psi.

Do you have above 200 psi of fuel pressure? ;)

Anyway, this step is likely to be same for most people if they are to going to relocate the fuel filter with AN fittings.

In my case, I have a high pressure fuel pump/fuel surge tank in my engine bay.  The fuel goes to the fuel surge tank before going to the fuel rail. Therefore my filter is placed before the surge tank.

Slightly cleaner look without the stock fuel filter.

Spoon Twin-block Brake Caliper (45020-DCR-G00) on EG6: update on Slipstreams Fit

Update: I tested fit with a 7" width with +40 offset slipstreams.  As calculated, the clearance from the calipers is 3mm (2.5mm from the "Spoon" lettering).

Fender bolts

Got these "fender bolts" at a fraction of the price of aluminum fender bolts. (Use the aluminum fender washer if using for areas where higher strength is needed or u got a deep pockets ;). 

The washer is manufactured by pressing out of the metal sheet, so it is hollow at the back. Which is good as it acts as a spring washer.  But not advisable to use it for area where high strength is needed.

PasswordJDM Fender Bolts vs Cheap Ass 'Fender' bolts

Nope, this will not add more hp to your engine!!

I would replace all the washers with the aluminum type if I had the cash to do so ;p

Next Project: Braided Fuel Line

This was supposed to be a Christmas project, but I just them in the mail today... (6 weeks of waiting)

These are AN6 fittings, fuel filter (30 micron) and nylon steel braided fuel hose meant for my relocation of the "ugly" fuel filter. 

Spoon Twin-block Brake Caliper (45020-DCR-G00) on EG6

Update (18 Jan 12): I mis-calculated the offset needed for the rims. The numbers have been revised.

I had the Spoon Twin block Caliper installed on my EG6. There are couple of things to look out for and parts needed for the installation.

• Twin-block: Piston size: 42.85 + 38.18 diameter 2.4kg
• Twin block assembly structure
• Monoblock: Piston Size: 40.46 + 36.12 diameter 2.6kg 
• High strength monocoque aluminum casted caliper

Spoon Twin-block Calipers with DIXCEL FS brake disc rotors and M series brake pads

Before going ahead to install the calipers on the EG6, you will need get the following:

1) 282mm brake disc rotors
2) 3mm wheel spacer to align the brake disc rotor to the calipers

3) Extended wheel studs.  This is due to the addition of the 3mm spacer, so to ensure there is enough thread on the wheel studs for the lug nuts to hold on to.

4) Open end lug nuts for the extended wheel lugs

Optional:

5) 1 inch brake cylinder

6) Double layer brake booster (The EG6 will have this as stock, but to fit the 1 inch brake cylinder, you might need to get the change too.  Explained further down this post)

282mm brake disc rotors

- BASED on the information I had gathered.  The stock Prelude / DC2R(98) / EK9 282mm brake disc rotor will warp if used with the Spoon Calipers.

- Project Mu brake disc is working well with the Spoon Calipers for one of my friend, but remember it is $$$

- In my case, I opt for the DIXCEL FS series of brake disc rotor (FS Type 331 5061)

It is heat treated with higher carbon content, therefore it is less likely to warp and most importantly it cost about half the amount for Project Mu brake disc rotors.

 3mm wheel spacer 

In order for the brake disc rotor to align with the calipers, u will need a 3mm wheel spacer. This spacer goes BEHIND the brake disc rotor. eg Between the hub and the brake disc rotor

I got the KIC 3mm wheel spacer. It is machined and feels sturdy enough for the application.

Alternative you can get the Spoon spacer at 3 times the cost ;)










Extended wheel lugs

I got the ARP extended wheel studs. It is 2.8 inch in length. As I mentioned earlier, it is due to the required 3mm spacer.  A better alternative is to use the wheel studs from DC5R or FD2R, this wheel studs are 8mm longer then the EG6 stock wheel studs, this will be more than suffice for the application. (I only found this out AFTER I had installed the ARPs ;p).

ARP extended wheel studs installed.

(Note the 3mm spacers is installed here before the brake disc rotors)

Do get new wheel bearing if u are going install new wheel studs, as the wheel bearing is very likely to be damage as the hub has to be pressed out to install the studs.

You should consider replacing the lower ball joint at the same time.

Open end lug nuts for the extended wheel lugs

If you got the ARP 2.8inch Extended Wheel Studs, u will need the open end long lug nuts to go with it.

This picture shows why. And make sure that it is threaded to the end!

This may not be necessary if you are going to use the DC5R or FD2R wheel studs.

1 inch brake cylinder

Going from stock prelude brakes to 4-Pot brakes, I was worried that the stock brake cylinder might not ideal. Therefore, I sourced for a EK9/DC2R brake cylinder.

Where the arrow is pointing to, indicates the piston size. For the original EG6 its 15/16 inch (23.8mm).

For the EK9/DC2R brakes, it has a 1 inch (25.4mm) cylinder.










Besides getting the brake cylinder, u will need a matching brake booster for the brake cylinder.

From the picture, the EK9/DC2R brake cylinder mounting is horizontal while the stock EG6 is diagonal.

If your EG6 came with ABS, most likely one of the ports for the brake fluid to the p-valve is bigger as indicated by the arrow.  The hard-brake line are 3/16 inch for EG6 and the EK9/DC2R so no worries there.

You will just need to swap the bolts from the original to 10mmx1 size. Just need to cut off the flange part remove the original bolt, put on the the 10x1mm and re-flare the hardline.






Wheel Clearance for ROTA Slipstreams 15x6.5" +40
In preparation for the installation of the brake calipers, I swapped 15 x 6.5" +40 Slipstreams to 15 x 7" +28 Slipstreams to ensure I have enough clearance from the calipers.

After the 15x7" +28 rims went up, I had about 15mm of clearance from the caliper. That will mean if I were to use the 15x6.5" +40 slipstreams, I will need:

update 17 Jun 2012 (Had done a wrong calculation, amendments done)
((28mm offset + 15mm Clearance - (Rim width difference 7"-6.5")/2) - 40mm offset) =
((28 + 15 - 12.7/2)-40) = 3.35mm spacer

To ensure safe clearance from the caliper, use the 10mm spacer (6.65mm clearance). (This would also mean the DC5R or FD2R wheel studs will not be sufficient).

I put on the15x6.5 40+ ROTA Slipstreams just for this picture. The rims can never seat on the hubs.

Just for reference, I only had about 2mm clearance for my prelude calipers to the 15 x 6.5 +40 Slipstreams at the closest point.

If u are using prelude calipers now, measure the clearance u have. It might give u can good idea which spacer to use by comparing to mine.

Another note, for my installation, I had the washers behind the knuckle (Pic on the right). Spoon recommendation is to have it between the knuckle and the caliper (Left).  Following Spoon's instruction would have push the calipers closer to the rims (about 2mm). So take that into considerations when selecting your spacer/offset.

Minimum offset for the Slipstreams that should fit (theoretically), based on my method of installation:
15 x 6.5 + 28: 8mm clearance
15 x 6.5 +35: 1mm clearance
15 x 7 +40: 3mm clearance (very tight tolerance)

You would have thought that since Spoon came up with SW388, they would have make sure the Calipers would have fitted well. ;p

Tip
I had a minor issue that I faced after my install.  After I upgraded the brake cylinder, the brake pedal assembly  and the brake light sensor was not touching, therefore my brakes light remained on. To rectify the problem, the brake light sensor position was readjusted. However. I had the position set too low and the brakes was not able to fully release.

As such, the vacuum in the brake booster built up as I drove and the brakes will seize up.  If this happen to you, just use the pliers to remove the brake booster vacuum hose to release the vacuum and the brakes will release. Then readjust the brake paddles or the brake light sensor under the dash.


Verdict

As I am still "running in" my new brake pads and disc, I cant really test the stopping ability. (Which is not the reason I upgraded to the Spoon calipers).  However, I do feel a great improvement over the modulation of the brakes, I am able to much better control over the amount of braking pressure applied.

Thank to Benedict aka URACO and Ian from Inspire21 (the workshop that I went to and where I got the Calipers, brake disc and pads) for their tips and help in making the installation relatively problem free :)

Preview: Spoon Twinblock

Just got my Spoon Twinblock brake calipers installed.  I will update with a post later with better photos, stuff to look out for and clearance on my slipstreams during the installation.