Busy

Sorry for the lack of updates.  This is because I am busy preparing for my big day! Happy new year to all HONDA die hard!

AEM Fuel Regulator

Finally installed my AEM fuel regulator after storage for 2 years ;p

This is my custom made fuel regulator with a metal diaphragm instead of a normal rubber type.  It is able to withstand more than 150psi of fuel pressure (I am running at 90 psi for better fuel atomization).

The standard fuel rail adapter for running after-market fuel regulator.

The AEM fuel regulator is able to withstand up to 120psi of fuel pressure and it bolts straight up to the fuel rail = neater and less chances of leaks.

These are three different sized orifices that came with the fuel regulator.  The rule for change the orifices: Bigger the orifice = less chances of fuel pressure spike (due to bigger fuel pump) but more sensitive in adjustment of fuel pressure (meaning harder to do minute adjustment)

Extracted from AEM installation manual:

 "A common problem that occurs when using a fixed orifice in a “universal” regulator is that the fuel pressure cannot be effectively controlled when the fuel pump volume is significantly higher than stock. In the case of too small of a discharge orifice, there is a large pressure spike associated with rapid deceleration because the orifice cannot flow enough fuel when the diaphragm is fully deflected to the open position. This causes a momentary rich condition, which may lead to a rough idle quality until the pressure stabilizes. Conversely if the discharge orifice is too large the adjustment is difficult because the response of the fuel flow out of the orifice is too rapid which makes the adjustment screw too sensitive. The AEM regulator is packaged with three orifice sizes, .100”, .150” and .200”."

Since I am using the in-tank version of the Bosch 044 fuel pump. I had changed the orifice to .150" size (it came installed with .100" size).

 The installation is quite straight forward. Bolts up just like a stock fuel regulator :)

update: 12 Jan 22

My first AEM FPR diaphragm broke after almost 10 years of usage. I bought another AEM FPR but it gave way just under 6 months. Not sure if the QC has dropped or I am just unlucky, but I got a SARD FPR instead this time.

Rigid Muffler Ring

Got myself some Rigid Muffler Ring as replacement for the rubber type I was using.  It is suppose to reduce the vibration of the exhaust system giving it a better flow.

 Mid pipe

 End of mid pipe

Muffler

To make life easier, spray some WD40 / Lubricant when removing and installing the muffler rings.

EG6 Rear Disc Upgrade

My friend just scrapped his EG6 (COE is up, didnt make sense to pay $US56,000 to be allowed to drive for only another 10yrs..). So he passed his 282mm rear brake disc kit to me.

Stock Rear Disc

Upgraded rear disc

Comparison of the stock disc vs the upgrade disc

The brake disc seats well onto the rear hub.

 The kit came with a 'dog bone' to offset the rear stock caliper.

The issue I had is that after installing the 'dog bone' the bracket for the brake cable was in the way of the caliper.  This will not allow the caliper to move freely.  Had to grind down the bracket to make space for the caliper movement.

After that, everything bolts up nicely.

 I have yet to push hard on how it is going to affect the braking.  Personal thoughts is that after upgrading my front brakes to the spoon twin-block, I should upgrade the rear to match, but whether if this is too big a upgrade which may cause over-steer, I will have to find a chance to test it out.

So far for slightly harder than normal braking on the straight, the braking felt more controlled than before, there is less 'dipping' towards the front.  More "importantly", it looks better than have having the puny disc in the rear ;p

Radiator - Mishimoto X-Line (Full size)

Got the Mishimoto X-Line radiator (DC2 radiator) as the replacement for my leaking Koyo R2028.  I could not get the R2028 as KOYO has cease production for the R series radiator for the DC2 and the replacement model are V series which are 36mm thick instead of the R series which are 53mm thick core.

Anyway, the package was great; the radiator was well protected in the soft foam enclosure.

 The weldings were alright.

Mishimotor has offset the top post of the radiator to prevent fitting issues.  On the koyo, the top post are welded in the centre of the radiator, which may cause fitting problems.

Mishimoto and Spal combo

Performance wise, there isnt much difference from the Koyo R2028. So I guess it's a good replacement.

EG6 Fender R (inner) 74101-SR3-000

Manage to get a new inner fender as replacement.  It is a simple job, so not going to have any description on the installation.  Just couple of pictures

 Part no. 74101-SR3-000 (right side)

The old torn and worn.














In placed :)

Hey... thats my ..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/92-95-honda-Civic-MuGen-Front-bumper-Lip-PU-kit-3Drs-EG-Jdm-/221004304013?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACivic&hash=item3374e20e8d&vxp=mtr

Found this on ebay. Looks really familiar....


note: I have no relation to the ebay seller

Function7 V3 Ultralight Lower Control Arms - Bling Bling

 New Bling :)

Picture taken from Function-7.com

The Function 7 LCA are really well made, almost all edges are chamferred to reduce point of stress.  With the V3, a new type of bushing 'DuraFlex' by Energy Suspension was used, so expect it to last longer.  On top of the that Function 7 offers free bushing replacement if u ever need one ;)

APi RS Coilovers

I had BC coilovers and sat in cars with Tein Suspension... My verdict was Coilovers = Back Shattering, guts churning and butt torturing rides, totally unsafe for road use (Imagine uneven road when the car will just bounce off at high speed, try going round a bend with road strips....)

Then my friend came along and recommended APi Coilovers which he tested and found it to be very good street performer.  Wanting to have the versatility to able to do height adjustments and damping (I was on Koni Yellow with stock springs after I threw out the BC coilovers), I decided to give coilovers another chance and order a set of APi RS with stock spring rates.

"APi Racing, in short for Australian Performance Innovations, was founded by Wei Kewei in 2011. Though an local Singaporean branding, the brand is named 'Australian Performance Innovations' as a form of tribute to his Australian counterparts, factories and friends who have provided him the necessary support, knowledge and technical specifications." Info extracted from APi website.

The coilovers looks very well built, full damping and height adjustable.

The damping control knobs looks good.

The Type RS in place

New Stance!!

Initial verdict... Fantastic road holding with comfortable ride feel.  I did not expect to get such great results. 

My damping setting are 50% on the rear and 62.5% on the front.

I going to push it harder to test them out fully and update again on this post.  But I do not think I am going to be disappointed.

update: 11 Jan 2022. I should have updated this way earlier. This set of coilover began to leak after 2 years of use, I replaced the absorber which last for another one year. 

I concluded that this set of coilover sucks and I bought a set Taiwanese brand of coilovers as replacement.

When I did my replacement of the coilover, I decided to do it myself. When I removed the APi coilover from my car, I realised that the installer/distributor did not pre-load the coilovers.. thus the absorber was always near the maximum compression leading to early failure.

My Taiwanese brand coilover at half the price has lasted 6 years and I am still using it without any leaks.. 

Case in point, if ur installer sucks, even the best product will be the shitty.  

Current look