Jerking at low rpm.

Today my car started jerking at low rpm, about 5% throttle.

While I depress the acceleration pedal up to 5%, the engine will rev, but once I go beyond 5% throttle, the car will suddenly surge forward. (Reading from my VAFC).

And when I try to hold the rpm at about 2500rpm when car is stationary, the rpm will rev up and down.

This symptom maybe due to:

Faulty Throttle position sensor (TPS)

Bad connectivity at the sensor (oxidized sensor plug)

TPS not calibrated

Or poor tuning.

(In my case, I had my TPS changed, plug cleaned, TPS calibrated and tuning was untouched.)

Since the VAFC was reflecting that the throttle sensor was working fine (I can see the % change gradually as depress the pedal), I suspected the signal into the ECU or the ECU or setting might be faulty.

After simple trail and error, I found out my ECU plugs was not seated properly (The catch on the plugs was worn off).

Long term fix will be to change the plugs from my spare harness.
My short term fix now is using cable tie (Very long ones) to hold the plug in place.

EG6 Fender Brace

I decided to get the fender brace to reduce the flex between struts and the A-pillar area.  By comparing the few generations of the CIVIC, you can see that the A-Pillar moves closer to over the wheels over the years.  I have drawn a straight line down the A-pillar to illustrate the difference.  So guess which civic has the least flex.

Picture edited from SuperStreetonline.com

Picture edited from SuperStreetonline.com

 

Just got this set of fender brace from Ultra Racing (best bang for buck and easily available locally) to re-enforce the area between the struts and the A-pillar.  The installation should relatively straight forward but tedious.

I have ordered new door hinges, so that I can get everything done in one shot.  Since the hinges is likely to giving way soon.

I will update again with the installations and measurements after my hinges arrives.

Rough pedal / throttle feel

My throttle / acceleration pedal was feeling kind of rough since a month ago and just recently the throttle was not able to close fully if I let go the pedal smoothly;  I had to give it a quick tap before it will close.  The solution is usually to replace the throttle cable (SGD$35).

In my case, I suspected that it is mainly due to the lack of lubricant on the cable.  The area I choose to lubricate is the part where it is exposed the most.

 Remove the rubber boot.

 Using lithium grease

 Apply generously to the cable around the area covered by the rubber boot and exit.

Fit back the rubber boot














In my case, this simple lubricating process resolved my rough throttle issues and saved me some cash and time.  So do try this before deciding to get new throttle cable as replacement.

Beware: Fake Skunk2 Pro Series Throttle Body

I recently came across a fake Skunk2 Pro Series Throttle body and I couldn't find any information on this.  Therefore, this post is meant for your awareness.

The pic above taken from SKUNK2 website is the REAL Skunk2 Pro Series Throttle body (Comes in black or hard anodized).  The thing I noticed about the fake, was that the minor details like the machine chamfers round the edge was missing, it was just a straight edge unlike the original as point out by the red arrows above.

I was lucky that I have been staring at the TB for months (couldn't afford one ;p), therefore I was able to notice the difference.

So take note, before parting out your hard earn cash for fakes.  

Note: This is not a post to promote SKUNK2 products, but as a means to keep everyone aware that there are fake SK2 TB in the market.

New Front Lip New Look

Then

Now

Varis CF Bonnet: Professional Clear Coating

 This was after my own attempt at "restoration"

 Being done by the professionals

 Back from ArmorCoatSG  Shiny.......

Thanks to Jonathan and his merry men for the wonderful job :)

Next item to go onto the car:

Seat bolts: re-thread

M8 x 1.25

The thread on the bolts securing the seats were round after multiple removal and installation of seats in the car. Which makes it a PITA when I need to remove the seats for some jobs.

The thread size for the bolt are as in the caption for the pictures.

M10 x 1.25

Old bolts with rounded threads.

 New bolts with spring washers

Taps for M8 x 1.25 and M10 x 1.25 threads with the tapping tool.

Since the threads are rounded on the bolts, it means the threads on the car are in bad condition. Therefore, I had to re-thread all the holes.

 When the holes re-thread and using new bolts, it is much easier to bolt and unbolt the seats.

Need a bigger washer..

EG6 VSS aka Speed Sensor 78410-SV0-003

My Speedometer was behaving erratically.  Occasionally, when I start off after parking for some time, the speedometer will not move until I have traveled for about 15km, after which the needle will jump from 0km/h to normal.  It got worse as engine check light came on.

The VSS aka Speed Sensor signal goes to the ECU and Speedometer directly.  To verify if there is a VSS issue, I check using my laptop connected to my Hondata for VSS reading which show 0 km/h when i was on the move.  

Those not using any programmable ECU or no other way to check this, can try to engage VTEC while driving.  If the VTEC engages will mean that the VSS is still providing signal to the ECU (VTEC will only engage after certain speed, which is why VTEC will not work when the car is stationary, while trying to rev beyond VTEC engagement RPM).  Also to note, the CEL may come on if the reading stays at 0km/h (trying unplugging the VSS, the CEL will not light up).  The CEL only light up when my Hondata VSS reading stays at 8km/h throughout.

 

I found a real cheap VSS off Ebay for US$10, which is not Honda original part, but for the price I though it might be worth trying.  It comes with the Drive Link (the little pin).

 The VSS is held down by 2 10mm bolts, which is easily accessible, local on the gearbox near the firewall.

Old VSS removed

Drive Link inserted

New VSS installed.

Taking a closer look, the centre pin is corroded.  It may have solved the problem I had clean up the pin.

Besides changing the VSS,  I decided to clean up the pin in the plugs

You can see that the centre pin is corroded like the old VSS.

I decided to remove the pin to clean it up. First remove the white plastic pin cover.

Push down the pin and slide it through the back of the plug.

I used 500 grit sandpaper to sand off the corroded area.

Plug everything in and hopefully the erratic behavior will disappear :)

Braided line and removal of fuel filter

It is time to change the fuel filter, I thought that I might as well remove the stock fuel filter and relocate it.

As I am going to do it with braided line and AN fittings. I will need to cut the stock fuel line and add a hard line adaptor. 

Mini Tube Cutter

I got the mini tube cutter to work in the confine space.

Cut Line

As the fuel supply line is 5/16, I got the hardline adaptor to convert it to -AN6.  

There is another way to convert the hardline to AN fittings which involves using a tube nut, tube sleeve, AN to AN adaptor and a VERY expensive 37 degree flaring tool. This method will be able to withstand at least 1000 psi.  The hardline adaptor i used for my application can ONLY withstand up to 200psi.

Do you have above 200 psi of fuel pressure? ;)

Anyway, this step is likely to be same for most people if they are to going to relocate the fuel filter with AN fittings.

In my case, I have a high pressure fuel pump/fuel surge tank in my engine bay.  The fuel goes to the fuel surge tank before going to the fuel rail. Therefore my filter is placed before the surge tank.

Slightly cleaner look without the stock fuel filter.

Spoon Twin-block Brake Caliper (45020-DCR-G00) on EG6: update on Slipstreams Fit

Update: I tested fit with a 7" width with +40 offset slipstreams.  As calculated, the clearance from the calipers is 3mm (2.5mm from the "Spoon" lettering).